Day 18

Day 18: You wouldn’t believe the racket cows make. The herd that is stationed in the field next to us have decided to trade gentle lowing for gut-vibrating honks, snorts, and near-donkey-like braying. One would wonder if they aren’t particularly pissed off about something.

They certainly weren’t happy with us last night (early this morning, really) as, in a slightly intoxicated state, Colin, Kari, Tom and I went outside at 1:30 a.m. to finally see the stars. Millions and millions of stars. There was actually enough starlight to photograph. Well, our quiet conversation unnerved Bessie and her friends, and they started yelling at us from over the hill. It rather sounded like they were saying “H---eeeyyy! HH---EEEYYY! Shut up over there!” That didn’t help our giggling and soon there was a ruckus of cows and people, them mooing ferociously and us dissolving into helpless inebriated laughter.

The weather blessed us with beauty this morning, and huge billowing clouds around the edges of the landscape look as though they don’t hold much rain. My stomach hates me from too much alcohol last night, so I stayed at the cottage and sent the whole gang to Barley Cove beach. I’m sad to not be there, but I’m sitting here staring out huge windows that overlook the Dunmanus Bay. A chilly but refreshing breeze is lifting off the water and the birds are falling over themselves to be the loudest singer. The cows are actually lowing, not bellowing like usual, and the collective hum of the bees in the fuchsia hedges in nearly a full-time drone. I hung laundry on the line and it looks like a bunch of blue and black sails are trying to cross the grassy courtyard. I’m watching the clouds pass over the distant hill, dragging shadows across its green and rocky landscape.

It’s nice to be alone. There’s such a difference between solitude and loneliness. I’ve been with people 24/7 for nearly two and a half weeks now, and I was ready to hear my own head humming for a while.
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Tom’s trip to Barley Cove with the rest of the tribe proved to be filled with beauty and laughter. Clare and Tom introduced Kari and Colin to the wonder of the beach there. We brought our lunch so there was no reason to leave. We napped in the sand dunes and splashed in the tidal pools. Colin made Clare into a sand mermaid and we watched as the tide came in so rapidly that our little island soon disappeared beneath the water. The beach is a football field deep and very shallow. It makes for great frolicking for a soon-to-be 4 year old, not to mention the old fart she’s with!

Upon leaving Barley Cove we drove on further towards Mizen Head to the village of Crookhaven. The road follows the coast and winds its way past small bays and eventually to the village. The water is incredibly clear and an azure blue you wouldn’t believe is possible in Ireland. It looks more like the Caribbean than the north Atlantic. Crookhaven is the place to go for watersports in the area. There is sailing and windsurfing and jetskis and plenty of beaches for swimming and snorkeling. After coming home we all took naps then watched the Olympics in between Clare’s movies. We brought a few of Clare’s favorites, they have come in very handy when you need her to slow down and chill.
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Lisa and Kari made a wonderful dinner of roasted chickenm glazed carrot, rosemary potatoes with a side of vegetarian pizza. We all got to bed fairly early.

téigh in éag (means: to end!)