Day 9

Day 9: Today we split up into girls’ and boys’ teams. Cindy, Laura, Lisa and Clare went on a drive North to Bantry and Killarney. Tom and Bill drive halfway to hell and back to go pick up the missing CD/DVD case and Clare’s pink backpack, which had both been left in a drawer by miss-thing-herself in the Thornbrook House B&B.

Since I was in the car with the girls, I can only account for our day, and it went like this: we lazed around for a while after the boys left and then decided that the Bantry House might be a good diversion and we headed up the N71 for a look around. We got there about 11am and we were darn near the only ones in the parking lot. A light mist was falling (and continued to fall all day, making it what the Irish call a “soft” day) and we decided to see the gardens before the skies opened up.

After paying our 10 EU entrance (why is everything so dear? 10 EU is about 16 dollars per person!) we walked back to the rear of the mansion to the extensive gardens. What a treat! It was very gorgeous, with a large central wisteria covered trellis surrounding a small fountain topped with spouting fish. Gravel paths wound in and out of clipped hedges and led to the “lollipop” trees in the four corners. Rising directly from the middle was a STEEP quadruple flight of stairs (100 of them altogether) that Mom made us climb to get the view. When we reached the top Lola and Clare and I were puffing like locomotives and Mom was laughing at us, but we were rewarded with a view of Bantry Bay over the top of the Bantry House that was awe-inspiring.

The interior of the mansion was just as impressive. Period furnishings, vibrant paint, gorgeous tapestries and fabric wallcoverings, and the open freedom to walk from room to room and peek in on the beauty without being heckled by a guide was refreshing. There weren’t even any ropes up keeping you out of the main sections of most rooms, you just wandered around and were NEXT TO the elegance, instead of separated from it. It was a total experience, and it seemd less like gawking at someone else’s treasures (the House is still privately owned by the Duke or Earl… I can’t remember which) and more like being invited over to tea. They even gave Clare a laminated card that had details of objects (animal eyes, bird feet, dragon paintings) she was supposed to look for in the pottery, tapestry, and woodwork. That was brilliant! It kept her occupied while we glided from stately room to stately room.

After we left the House to explore the front garden crammed with blooming blossoms, the boys called us to say they were leaving Cashel and would meet us north of where we were in Killarney. So we set out on what would be the hairiest part of our adventure. After passing though VERY heavy traffic in Kenmare, we stopped to ask directions on what would be the best route into Killarney. A nice Eircom man gave mom the 20 minute version of all the different streets and their pros and cons, and we chose to continue up on the N71.

What a ride! The road varied from wide and smoothly paved to narrow enough for only a car and a half at times. It was seriously rutted on the sides and gave the effect of a washboard for miles at a time. We climbed sheer cliffs and rounded corners to find waterfalls running out of the bare rock mountains. Sheep that had jumped the guardrail wandered onto the highway. Then, to top it all off, there was a sign for a tunnel up ahead. When we got to it, Cindy let out a little cry and barreled into the black depth of it, blinded by how dark the interior was compared to the light blazing in from the end. Water that had seeped through the stone mountain was rushing down from the roof of the tunnel, creating a carwash effect on the windshield. And to top it all off, it was barely wide enough for one car, let alone the two-way traffic that was speeding through it.

After three more tunnels and 15 more miles of a “Road to Hana” (for those of you who have been to Hawaii and braved the steep, 150 hairpin turn, twisty and treacherous road) we emerged near the Killarney national forest and into a stunningly gorgeous view of the lakes of Killarney. Adding to Laura’s soundtrack of screaming Sheeeepp everytime she caught sight of one, Lisa added a cry of WOW! to every couple turns or so. Clare was humming a tune most of the way and Cindy continued yelling at drivers who felt the need to take up both sides of the narrow road. We were a wreck of nerves and pent up energy by the time we reached Killarney and parked.

Tom and Bill had made good time driving from Cashel through Mallow and on to Killarney. The southern midlands are rich with farmland. We noticed that there are more homes for sale in this area than elsewhere. Everywhere we’ve gone in Ireland we notice more homes and properties for sale than any previous trips. Tom has had several conversations with the Irish about their economy. The general feel is that it is a recession complicated by the boldness of the “Celtic tiger”. The Irish were too optimistic about their success. It is very similar to what we’re going through in the US. Most of them feel the U.S. has to get back on its feet before Ireland can resume its growth. Their economy is partially tied to ours. The power of the Euro cuts both ways. It’s expensive for us with the Euro so strong but its equally hard on the Irish because fuel and food costs are soaring. A few Irish have spoken to me about our politics. Obama rates high with most of them but they feel we’re too divided in the US to elect a black man.

Lisa’s favorite restaurant, Bricin, was set to close for lunch at 3 pm, just 15 minutes after we arrived in Killarney. We rushed upstairs and put in our request for a table just in time. The meal, like the last one we had there six years ago, was delicious. Lisa and Tom and Clare shared the roast chicken and ham with three veg, Cindy and Laura had chicken tagliatelle with handmade noodles, and Bill drank his lunch and ate around the edges.

We thought we might be able to go back a different way, but no. We were all in for the same adventure all the way back to Bantry. The coolest part was when Tom and Bill pulled off at a lookout point at” Ladies View” Lookout and the sun parted the clouds briefly enough o give us a faint rainbow! Clare looked for the pot of gold and we all marveled in the beauty for a moment before the clouds closed back in.

When we got home, the sheep that had been in a far field had been moved right up next to is, so Lola and Clare and Cindy snuck up on them and took pictures with the Baaaing herd. Lola got to act crazy and BAAAA repeatedly to her friends, finally.

Tom and Bill had had a rough day: the drive to Cashel and back was 5 hours. Tom joked that Bill got to see more of Ireland than he bargained for. But they retrieved the CDs and DVDs and a couple of glasses of Jameson’s that night put them both right again.
Lola helped Lisa make a beef and barley soup, Clare strung beads and worked off some pent up energy, and Cindy enjoyed a much-needed tipple with the boys.

What a day!

téigh in éag (means: to end!)